Ryan Geyer

After the recent upgrades to my Ender 3, I’ve been happily printing PLA on my new spring steel bed for some time. Now tho, I wanted to switch back to my glass bed and print some PETG. In attempting to print, I’ve had the same model fail twice! Both times, it was a “THERMAL RUNAWAY PROTECTION” error. This is where the firmware of the machine monitors the amount of power it’s sending to the heaters, and measures the current temperature (relative to the desired temp), and if it thinks something is wrong, it’ll shut the machine off rather than burn down your house.

Having completed the mechanical assembly on my Ender 3, it was time to move on to getting all of the electronics dialed in, and tuned. Marlin Firmware The first step was to get the latest-and-greatest version of Marlin 2.0 and add my configuration. Since I intended to run the inductive/PINDA type bed leveling probe, that meant some changes to my configuration. As fate would have it, I’d go back to my BLTouch (more on that later).

Coming off of my plans to upgrade and tune my Ender 3, I started to work on printing the new hot-end mount and cooling system in the form of the excellent Hero Me Gen5. Hero Me Gen 5 As I also mentioned in that post, I decided to bring my customizations and build up-to-date with a new direct drive mount from PrinterMods, namely the MDD v1.3. With that in mind, I scoured the very thorough documentation, and watched the assembly video from TeachingTech, at which point I put together the list of parts I needed to print for my combination of components.

Humble beginnings If I’m honest, it’s been so long since I printed with my Ender 3 that I don’t really remember what sort of issues or failures it was suffering from. I think that I was having some bed adhesion issues, and I’ve always had lackluster cooling on this machine. So after it has been sitting idle for over 6mo while my Prusa MK3s has been busy being a workhorse, it’s time to work out the bugs and get the Ender 3 printing again.